Diana Penty in Raniwala 1881: 4 Polki Jewellery Looks
Diana Penty’s Raniwala 1881 looks, in short
Diana Penty wore four distinct Raniwala 1881 jewellery looks for the Brides Today cover shoot, each offering a different perspective on how Polki jewellery can shape a bridal look. From a statement Polki necklace styled as headgear to sculptural chokers in rose gold, emerald and rose-cut diamonds, the four looks share one principle: choose a piece that leads, then let everything else find its place around it.
At Raniwala 1881, we have worked with Polki and traditional Indian jewellery craftsmanship since 1881. I have always believed that the strongest jewellery styling begins with a clear decision about what deserves attention. It is not about wearing more. It is about understanding proportion, colour, the neckline and the character of the piece.
Diana’s four looks illustrate this beautifully. They also reflect an approach to design that informs The Jaipur Edit, our collection inspired by Jaipur as the city approaches 300 years since its founding. Both the shoot and the collection explore how traditional Indian artistry can remain relevant when we approach it with a contemporary eye.
Here is a closer look at each ensemble, the design choices that make it work, and what brides can take from them.
Look one: the Regal Polki necklace, worn as headgear
The look: Diana wore a statement Regal Polki necklace across her head, styled with a sculptural Polki kada, bangles and rings. Her ensemble featured a hand-embroidered lehenga and a mirror-embellished corset blouse in Malai Beige by Mahima Mahajan, complemented by soft, loose hair.
Why this Polki styling works
It changes the role of the jewellery. Worn as headgear, the necklace becomes a crown. The arrangement draws from the Indian tradition of forehead and hair ornaments while giving a familiar jewellery form a different purpose.
It frames the face. The necklace follows the hairline, while its central drop draws attention towards the parting and eyes. The placement gives the jewellery a defined silhouette without relying on a conventional neckline.
It creates a visual connection from head to hand. The Polki kada, bangles and rings complete the look when Diana brings her hand towards her face. Each piece contributes to the overall composition rather than competing for attention.
It complements the outfit instead of overpowering it. The warm glow of uncut Polki sits naturally against the beige and gold embroidery. The colours work together, allowing the craftsmanship of both the jewellery and the outfit to remain visible.
What brides can learn from this look
Traditional bridal jewellery does not always have to be worn in the expected way. A necklace can become a headpiece when its construction and proportions allow it. Keep the hair soft, avoid excessive ornamentation around the neckline, and let the statement piece establish the mood.
Look two: the Aurelia Wings Choker
The look: Diana wore the Aurelia Wings Choker, paired with Polki bangles and rings, against a blush-peach lehenga with floral embroidery and an embroidered V-neck blouse by Mahima Mahajan.
What makes the design distinctive
The wings establish the silhouette. Layered motifs extend outwards on either side of the neck, creating a fan-like form that gives the choker its architectural character.
The centre anchors the design. A bold octagonal Polki drop draws the eye towards the middle, balancing the wider motifs on either side.
Rose gold complements the outfit. The warm metal tone works with the blush-peach fabric, creating harmony between the jewellery and the ensemble rather than a sharp contrast.
The neckline gives the choker room. The open V-neck allows the design to remain visible and gives its layered details space to stand out.
What brides can learn from this look
When a Polki choker has a strong architectural form, the outfit should support its design rather than compete with it. Consider the neckline, the metal tone and the scale of the jewellery together. A well-chosen choker can define the entire look without requiring additional statement pieces.
Look three: the Emerald Majesty Choker
The look: Diana wore the Emerald Majesty Choker with matching bangles, rings and earrings. The jewellery accompanied a red printed lehenga and structured corset by Mahima Mahajan.
Why this bridal jewellery combination works
The colours create contrast. Emerald green against red brings two rich colours together, a familiar combination in Indian bridal dressing. Here, the jewellery introduces the green, giving the ensemble a second colour around which the styling can develop.
The neckline lets the jewellery lead. The off-shoulder silhouette leaves the collarbone open, giving the choker a clear space to sit and allowing its details to remain visible.
The accessories belong to one design family. Coordinating bangles, rings and earrings repeat the colours and finish of the choker. This creates continuity without making every accessory compete for attention.
The jewellery balances the printed outfit. With a saturated red lehenga and a structured silhouette, the emerald choker introduces contrast while keeping the focus on the overall composition.
What brides can learn from this look
When choosing Polki jewellery for a red lehenga, consider emerald green as an alternative to a predominantly gold or diamond-toned combination. The key is to make colour a deliberate part of the styling. Keep the neckline clean and select accompanying pieces that reinforce the choker rather than distract from it.
Look four: the Rosecut Bloom Choker
The look: Diana paired the Rosecut Bloom Choker with a hand-embroidered Henna Green saree and a structured corset by Mahima Mahajan.
Why the combination works
The jewellery echoes the embroidery. The soft pink tones of the choker pick up the floral details worked into the saree, creating a connection between the two pieces.
The close-fitting choker balances the silhouette. Sitting close to the neck, the choker defines the upper half of the look while the structured corset creates shape through the torso.
The saree offers a different bridal direction. The combination of a traditional drape and a sculpted corset demonstrates how brides can approach saree styling with a contemporary perspective.
The details feel connected. Rather than introducing another dominant colour or motif, the jewellery draws from the outfit's existing visual language.
What brides can learn from this look
When styling Polki jewellery with a saree, look for details that connect the jewellery to the fabric. A shared colour, floral motif or metal tone can make the combination feel considered. This approach works particularly well when the outfit already has intricate embroidery or a defined silhouette.
Source: Brides Today on Instagram.
The four looks at a glance
Each look from the Brides Today cover shoot begins with one defining piece. The styling changes according to the jewellery, the outfit and the effect we want to create.
- Regal Polki Necklace: Worn as headgear with a Polki kada, bangles and rings. The idea is to reinterpret a necklace as a crown.
- Aurelia Wings Choker: Rose gold and uncut Polki styled with a blush-peach outfit. The idea is to let architectural jewellery lead.
- Emerald Majesty Choker: Styled with a red lehenga and coordinating accessories. The idea is to use colour to create contrast.
- Rosecut Bloom Choker: Paired with a Henna Green saree and structured corset. The idea is to connect jewellery details with the outfit's embroidery.
The lesson is not to follow these combinations exactly. It is to understand why they work and apply the same thinking to your own bridal wardrobe.
Which of these looks suits your outfit?
The right bridal jewellery depends on more than the colour of your outfit. The neckline, embroidery, silhouette and scale of the jewellery all influence the final result.
For a beige or gold embroidered lehenga: Consider a statement Polki necklace or an unconventional headpiece. Keep the remaining jewellery balanced so the central piece retains its impact.
For a blush or peach lehenga: Rose gold can complement the outfit's warmer tones. A sculptural Polki choker works particularly well with an open neckline.
For a red lehenga: Emerald green introduces a rich contrasting colour. Choose a choker that sits comfortably against the neckline and coordinate the accompanying jewellery.
For a green saree: Rose-cut diamond jewellery with soft pink details can complement floral embroidery. A close-fitting choker can also balance a structured blouse or corset.
For a heavily embroidered bridal outfit: Consider the visual weight of your jewellery before adding multiple statement pieces. Sometimes one distinctive necklace and a few complementary accessories create a stronger result than a complete set of equally prominent pieces.
We encourage brides to consider how they will wear the jewellery, not simply how it looks in isolation. A piece should work with the outfit, feel comfortable to wear and remain true to the person wearing it.
Where The Jaipur Edit comes in
At Raniwala 1881, Jaipur influences more than the jewellery we make. It shapes how we understand symmetry, colour, architecture and ornament.
We unveiled The Jaipur Edit in September 2026, as Jaipur approaches its 300th anniversary in 2027. Founded in 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the city has developed a distinctive visual identity through its architecture, artistic traditions, royal ceremonies and cultural life.
I wanted the collection to look beyond familiar images of Jaipur and explore the design language that makes the city recognisable. An architectural detail, the proportions of an arch or the atmosphere of a palace after sunset can all offer a starting point for jewellery design.
The Jaipur Edit unfolds across three chapters.
The Grand Hall explores the grandeur, symmetry and ceremony of Jaipur's architectural spaces.
Chaugan draws from the city's sporting traditions, particularly Polo, and the energy associated with its royal culture.
Dusk explores Jaipur after dark, from its evening celebrations to the atmosphere of dressing for a grand occasion.
The collection approaches Jaipur not simply as a historic destination but as a living source of design.
What connects Diana Penty's looks to The Jaipur Edit?
The four looks from the Brides Today cover shoot offer a useful way to understand some of the same principles.
Scale and ceremony: The Regal Polki headpiece transforms a necklace into a statement of grandeur, echoing the ceremonial character explored in The Grand Hall.
Geometry and symmetry: The Aurelia Wings Choker uses an outward-reaching silhouette and a central octagonal element to establish balance. These relationships between form and proportion also inform the collection's architectural references.
Tradition with a contemporary perspective: None of the four looks treats Polki as something reserved for a particular occasion or a fixed way of wearing jewellery. Each offers a different interpretation of a traditional craft.
Colour as identity: The emerald, red, blush and Henna Green combinations demonstrate how colour can define a look. Jaipur's visual character similarly draws strength from its distinctive palette.
For us, the point is not to recreate the past exactly as it was. It is to understand what makes a tradition meaningful and find ways to carry it forward.
As Abhishek and Abhiyant Raniwala describe the collection: “The city is familiar, but it never feels ordinary.”
That thought also captures what I find compelling about Polki jewellery. Its techniques have deep roots, yet every new design offers an opportunity to see the craft differently.
Our guides explain what Polki jewellery is, how it differs from kundan and jadau, and how to recognise what is real.
A note from our Jaipur atelier
Raniwala 1881 is a Jaipur fine jewellery house established in 1881, with a distinctive approach to Polki and diamond jewellery. Our work brings traditional Indian jewellery techniques into conversation with contemporary forms, while retaining the attention to detail that each piece demands.
For me, craftsmanship is not only about the finished piece. It is also about understanding the material, respecting the skill involved in setting each stone and knowing when a design needs nothing more.
Jaipur continues to shape that approach. Its jewellery traditions, artistic communities and visual culture inform the way we think about design today. Read Jaipur and the Art of Polki.
Related reading: A Bride Shaped by Generations, The Art of Versatility: Jewellery beyond the wedding day, and AAINA by Raniwala 1881.
See it in person
Experience Raniwala 1881
Polki jewellery is best appreciated beyond a photograph. The way a stone catches the light, how a necklace sits against the neckline and how the weight feels when worn all contribute to the experience.
We invite you to discover Raniwala 1881 at our Jaipur atelier or our Experience Centre in Delhi. You can book a private appointment or speak with our jewellery consultants through WhatsApp or a video consultation to explore pieces for your wedding, reception or other special occasions.
Whether you are looking for a statement Polki necklace, an emerald choker or jewellery to complement a saree, our team can help you consider the design, proportions and styling possibilities. Meet the founders.
Frequently asked questions
What jewellery did Diana Penty wear from Raniwala 1881?
Diana Penty wore four Raniwala 1881 looks for the Brides Today cover shoot: a Regal Polki necklace styled as headgear with a Polki kada, bangles and rings; the Aurelia Wings Choker in rose gold and uncut Polki; the Emerald Majesty Choker; and the Rosecut Bloom Choker. The looks paired statement Polki jewellery with outfits by Mahima Mahajan.
Which Raniwala 1881 choker did Diana Penty wear with a red lehenga?
Diana Penty wore the Emerald Majesty Choker with a red printed lehenga and structured corset by Mahima Mahajan. She paired the choker with coordinating bangles, rings and earrings, using emerald green to create contrast against the red outfit.
What is the Aurelia Wings Choker by Raniwala 1881?
The Aurelia Wings Choker is a Raniwala 1881 design featuring rose gold and uncut Polki. Layered motifs extend outwards on either side of the neck, while an octagonal Polki drop anchors the centre. Its architectural silhouette works particularly well with open or V-shaped necklines.
Can you wear a Polki necklace as headgear?
Yes, provided the necklace's construction and fit allow it to sit securely and comfortably. Diana Penty demonstrated this styling approach by wearing a statement Regal Polki necklace across her head. The look works best when the placement is balanced and the rest of the styling complements the headpiece.
What jewellery goes with a red bridal lehenga?
Emerald green, traditional gold and Polki jewellery can all complement a red bridal lehenga. Emerald green creates a rich colour contrast, as seen in Diana Penty's Emerald Majesty Choker look. The best choice depends on the lehenga's embroidery, neckline and overall colour palette.
Can you wear Polki jewellery with a saree?
Yes. Polki jewellery works beautifully with traditional and contemporary sarees. For a cohesive look, consider the saree's embroidery, colour and blouse silhouette. Diana Penty paired the Rosecut Bloom Choker with a Henna Green embroidered saree and structured corset, allowing the jewellery and floral details to complement one another.
How should you style a Polki choker for a wedding?
Start with the neckline and the scale of the choker. An open neckline can give a statement design room to stand out, while coordinating bangles and rings can complete the look. You can also introduce colour through the jewellery, such as emerald green against red or rose gold with blush tones.
What is The Jaipur Edit by Raniwala 1881?
The Jaipur Edit is a Raniwala 1881 jewellery collection unveiled in September 2026 to honour Jaipur as the city approaches 300 years since its founding in 1727. It interprets Jaipur's architecture, sporting traditions and evening culture through three chapters: The Grand Hall, Chaugan and Dusk.
What is Polki jewellery?
Polki jewellery features natural, uncut diamonds traditionally set in gold using specialised Indian jewellery techniques, including jadau. The stones retain their natural form rather than being shaped into the standard faceted cuts commonly associated with modern diamond jewellery. The design, setting and finishing all contribute to the character of a Polki piece.
Where can I explore Raniwala 1881 Polki jewellery?
You can explore Raniwala 1881 jewellery at our Jaipur atelier and Experience Centre in Delhi. We also offer private appointments and consultations through WhatsApp or video call to help you discover Polki necklaces, chokers and other fine jewellery for bridal and occasion wear.
About the author
Abhishek Raniwala is Co-Founder of Raniwala 1881, the Jaipur fine jewellery house established in 1881. His perspective on design brings together the house's jewellery-making traditions, contemporary aesthetics and the enduring influence of Jaipur's artistic culture.
Explore more about the founders of Raniwala 1881.
